Round Glasses: Freud, Trotsky, and Harry Potter

October 8th, 2009

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Leon Trotsky: Style Icon

Leon Trotsky: Style Icon

Yes, the “style icon” label for Leon Trotsky is meant to be tongue-in-cheek. He would almost certainly reject such a bourgeois capitalist pursuit as fashion. Even so, the style of glasses most associated with him is worn by undergraduate wannabe-intellectuals everywhere (and you have to admit, they do lend a certain scholarly air to his appearance).

The vintage fashion world is sometimes over-focused on mid-century styles, especially the 1950′s and 1960′s (fanned, of course, by Mad Men). We’re much less nostalgic, it seems, for earlier in the century (and with two world wars, who can blame us). But those decades were full of interesting sartorial choices. Let’s have a look at another pair of round glasses, here worn by Sigmund Freud:

Freud's round glasses

Freud's round glasses

And, of course, William Butler Yeats

(he of “Things fall apart; the centre cannot hold;
Mere anarchy is loosed upon the world,
The blood-dimmed tide is loosed, and everywhere
The ceremony of innocence is drowned;
The best lack all conviction, while the worst
Are full of passionate intensity”)

Yeats also favours round spectacles.

Yeats also favours round spectacles.

All giants among men, all historically/artistically influential. Something about these frames points to an inner greatness. I think this is the look Harry Potter was going for.

Vintage Style Spotlight: Browline Glasses

October 2nd, 2009

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Mad Men's Harry Crane wearing browline glasses

Mad Men's Harry Crane wearing browline glasses

With the success of Mad Men, many people associate the classic men’sbrowline style with the character of Harry Crane on the TV show. I, however, will always associate them with the character of J. J. Hunsecker in the movie Sweet Smell of Success.

These eyeglasses, most popular in the 1950′s, have a heavy plastic frame along the brow (hence the name “browline”) with metal rims around the bottom. They typically also have horn rims, and have a distinguished, almost professorial look. There are women’s versions of the browline style, and they often take on a cat’s eye shape. Some variations of the browline style omit the bottom metal rim in favour of a nylon wire holding the lens in place.

Today we tend to refer to frames that only partially encircle the lens as “semi-rimless”. Most of the semi-rimless frames made today are designed to be unobtrusive, without the prominent top frame. Shuron, however, still makes browline frames in the classic style.

JJ Hunsecker Wearing Browline Glasses

JJ Hunsecker Wearing Browline Glasses

Where to Buy Vintage Eyeglasses: Fabulous Fanny’s

September 26th, 2009

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"Blue Butterfly" eyeglasses for sale at Fabulous Fanny's

I’ve posted before about my purchase from Fabulous Fanny’s, but they deserve a whole post. An unassuming shop in the East Village of Manhattan that specializes in eyeglasses, they also sell antique glasses, including pince-nez, and various other eyewear oddities such as antique chains. They also have an excellent collection of vintage sunglasses. Some of their catalog tends toward the costume-y, and some of the frames aren’t vintage but rather new frames modeled after older styles.

If you’re not in New York, they also have an online store with a very wide selection.

They’re not opticians – the vintage frames are mostly sold without lenses (except for some of the antiques), and they sent me to Optical 88 in Chinatown to have my prescription added. However, they do offer services that a regular optician wouldn’t, like replacing missing parts from antique spectacles or the custom addition of rhinestones to your frames.